Chemicals in our Make up - Part 1: Foundation

This post was a request from Bibil, and inspired by one of my earlier posts about Eczema and cosmetics products:

What are the chemicals in our make up?

Well, although I found many articles saying that there is no regulation, actually there is a fairly well controlled organisation that bases its research on many reviews published in scientific journals.

Because the subject is endless and for the sake of easy reading, I will concentrate on the essentials such as: Foundation - Eye shadow - Mascara - Lipstick which I will separate into different posts, making it a mini series. Today's post will be:

Foundation

Liquid foundation makeup

Foundation is composed of different phases that are mixed together:

The Powder Phase products includes skin covering and opaque materials such as titanium dioxide and/or zinc oxide, and fillers such as talc or mica that creates a matte finish on the skin. Also, metallic stearates are added to provide opacity and water repellency.

Titanium dioxide TiO2 is a natural mineral used, amongst many other applications, as a pigment because of it brightness and also its efficient opacifier! It is also used in every sunscreen product for its ability to protect the skin, however titanium dioxide dust, when inhaled, has been classified as a cancer-causing agent. This follows a study on rats developing lung cancer and mice getting mutations in their DNA. 

Talc, also called magnesium silicate, is considered safe at a low concentrations, but many studies have shown a link between talc and lung/ovarian/skin cancer. In general, inhalation of the particles are what's harmful.

Mica is a general name for silicates, they are used in combination with TiO2 to produce shimmering effects. They are also used in paint for cars and plastic containers. 

Metallic stearates such as Magnesium stearate doesn't seem to yield any risk.

The Aqueous Phase includes mostly water followed by wetting or dispersing agents that assist in pigment blending (lecithin, sulfosuccinates, ethoxylated sorbitan esters). Also gums and clays that operates as co-emulsifiers, thickeners and pigment-suspending agents (Magnesium aluminium silicate, bentonite, methylcellulose).

Lecithin is a natural product that we can find in egg yolk, and has even been proven to help lowering cholesterol.  

Sulfosuccinate is commomly used in pharmaceuticals products, rare side effects have been linked to its comsumption. Sulfosuccinate does not cause cancer, but has been shown to be a skin and eyes irritant.  

Ethoxylated Sorbitan ester is a solubilizer, an emulsifier, an antistat and fiber lubricant used in textile industry, a wetting agent, a viscosity modifier, a suspending agent used in food, cosmetics, drugs, textile and metal working industries, a solubilizer for perfumes and flavours, insecticide, herbicides, paints and inks, and pharmaceuticals. It is found naturally in various berries and fruits or it is prepared synthetically by high-pressure preparation of sugar. Studies found it to be safe and non carcinogenic. See this Study for more info   

Bentonite can be used in cement, adhesives, ceramic and cat litter. Studies have not found it to be toxic at the low doses used in cosmetics. An interesting fact from Wikipedia that we can somehow relate to foundation: The same effluvial deposition of bentonite clay onto beaches accounts for the variety of plasticity of sand from place to place for building sand castles. Beach sand consisting of only silica and shell grains does not mold well compared to grains coated with bentonite clay. This is why some beaches are much better for building sand castles than others. 

The Polyol Phase consists of materials that improve makeup spreadability, decrease drying rate, increase product smoothness and creaminess (glycerin, PEG).

Glycerin is the same as Glycerol.It is a colorless, odorless, viscuous liquid that is widely used in pharmaceuticals formulations.It is found in allergen immunotherapies, cough syrups, elixirs and expectorants, toothpaste, mouthwashes, skin care products, shaving cream, hair care products,soaps.Topical pure or nearly pure glycerol is an effective treatment for psoriasis, burns, bites, cuts, rashes, bedsores, and calluses. 

PEGs: These compounds are used in a great variety of cosmetic applications because of their solubility and viscosity properties, and because of their low toxicity. They produce little or no ocular or dermal irritation and have extremely low acute and chronic toxicities. They do not readily penetrate intact skin, and in view of the wide use of preparations containing PEG and PEG derivatives, only few case reports on sensitisation reactions have been published, mainly involving patients with exposure to PEGs in medicines or following exposure to injured or chronically inflamed skin. On healthy skin, the sensitising potential of these compounds appears to be negligible.

The Oil Phase is composed of both liquid and solid materials that assist with product emulsification, spreadibility, pigment dispersion and viscosity control. They include fatty acids (stearic acid, oleic acid), waxes (carnauba, ozokerite, ceresin) and paste like butters. Emulsifying and thickening agents (propylen glycol, sorbitan), along with antioxidants (tocopherols, BHT), preservatives (parabens, urea), and fragrances added within the oil phase, may improve application properties and product quality and purity.

Stearic/oleic acid:  The term "oleic" is related to oil or olive. Oleic acid is a fatty acid found in various animal and vegetable fats. Positive health effects of the substance have been documented. Adverse effects also have been documented, however, because both oleic and monounsaturated fatty acid levels in the membranes of red blood cells have been associated with increased risk of breast cancer. Stearic acid occurs in many animal and vergetable fats and oils. And some studies suggest that it may be healthier than other saturated fatty acids. 

Carnauba is used to thicken the formulation of foundation. Is also used in candy making or pharmaceutical tablet. 

Ozokerite is a naturally occurring odoriferous mineral wax or paraffin and is used in candle making. I found one scientific article entitled the carcinogenic activity of medicinal ozokerite, but it is in Russian so I don't know if the result is positive or not! 

Ceresin is a wax derived from ozokerite by a purifying process. 

Tocopherols =Vitamin E activity is an antioxidant added to prevent oxidation of sensitive ingredients as well as protect the skin from free-radical damage. It is found in our diet or in supplements; therefore it is safe to assume that it is safe in cosmetics. 

BHT is an antioxidant, some studies haven shown that it reduces the risk of cancer, others studies to increase it. It is also found in supplements. A Scientific review was conducted in '99 ans concluded that BHA (is used as a "safer" replacement for BHT) and BHT pose no cancer hazard and, to the contrary, may be carcinogenic at current levels of food additive use

Parabens are used as preservatives for their antibacterial and antifungal actions, so we can keep our creams without them becoming infected. So far, no other component has been as efficient to replace it. Much contraversy has been raised  after extremely low concentrations have been found in breast cancer tumours however more research need to be conducted to confidently link paraben to cancer. Paraben is found naturally in some plants such as blueberries and most parabens used in products have the exact same formula. However it has been shown with confidence that some people can become allergic to it and should avoid it or else could develop dermatitis!  - Full review is now available 

Urea is a skin irritant for people who suffers from dermatitis and have an allergy to Formaldehyde.

For more info, check this list of scientific reviews HERE

This concludes our first part of Chemicals in our Make up. I hope you found it interesting. 

Stay tuned for:

• Part Two: Eye Shadow
• Part Three: Mascara
• Part Four: Lipstick

Vitamin D and the Winter Blues

This was a request from Bibil: Why do we feel depressed during winter?

Winter blues, called SAD for Seasonal Affective Disorder, is a seasonal depression and mood variation known to be related to how much sunlight you receive. Your mood is influenced by a complexed relationship between sunlight, melatonin (sleep hormone) and serotonin (awake AND good mood hormone).

Winter Blues 

As the dark hours increase during winter, our body increases levels of melatonin, leaving less hours for the body to increase its serotonin levels. Whereas during summer, serotonin levels increase when you are exposed to bright light making you feel in a better mood!

Indeed it is well known that bright light therapy can bring quick benefits to people with depression or SAD because light affects the balance between melatonin and serotonin

What is Eczema?

My Dear Sexy Readers,

Today, we are looking at a condition that affects millions of us. In fact, about 1 in every 9 people is suffering from Eczema!

---- Eczema Awareness Week 13-21 Sept 2014 ----

For this post, I am lucky to announce this is a double post with the amazing participation of Sugarpuffish who you can find at this address http://sugarpuffish.blogspot.com/. It is a fabulous and interesting blog about beauty products for people affected by Eczema and/or allergies.

When I stumbled upon her blog, I immediately asked her about guest posting on Science is So Sexy. She replied promptly, not like the weeks it took me to write it up... ;) Thank you Sugarpuffish!!

Sugarpuffish input is written in italics

So, What is Eczema?

Eczema is an inflammation of the outer layer of the skin, and is also called dermatitis, although, depending on the translation in different countries, some doctors would say eczema refers to a chronic condition (as in you always have it) whereas dermatitis refers to an acute condition (as in you get it once, or occasionnaly).

Eczema is an inflammation of the outer layer of the skin 

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It is a term broadly applied to a range of skin conditions including dryness, rashes with redness, swelling, itching, crusting, cracking, bleeding among others.

Types of Eczema and associated symptoms

There are different ways to classify all the different types of eczema depending on the cause, the location or the appearance. 

There are different types of Eczema, as a child I suffered from the most common form Atopic Eczema now as an adult I probably also fall into the category of Contact Eczema.  It is often said that you will grow out of Atopic eczema but I don’t feel I ever have.  However you class my eczema I have suffered from it since infancy.

Atopic Eczema is one of the most common type, and is an allergic disease with possible genetic factor that might occur more often in families who suffer from asthma

Eczema can flare up and calm down.  It can be in small patches common in body joints (backs of knees or inside elbows) or over the whole body.  Even when not suffering eczema flare up your skin is dry, itchy and sensitive.  I am fortunate that my eczema is not always visible.  Eczema is not pleasant to look at and I have read on forums that sufferers do encounter negativity from people who do not recognise their skin condition.

When asked what eczema feels like the main characteristic which drives you insane is the itch.  As a child I scratched my skin even when asleep.  9 times out of 10 you scratch so hard you break the skin and draw blood which often leads to infections.  My skin always feels too tight for my body so when you flex an arm you feel like your skin is tearing.  Eczema appears red, flaky and extremely dry.

Other types of eczemas include Discoid Eczema that comes and goes, Venous usually affecting people with blood circulation problems, Xerotic where your skin is so dry it turns into eczema or Contact dermatitis which can be either allergic or irritant from direct contact with something.

In the case of Atopic Eczema, technically, if you avoid the products that make you allergic or irritant, you should be able to cure your eczema. Now of course, with some many allergens in our beauty products, it's very hard to do so, and it's for that precise reason that Sugarpuffish started her blog.

Treatments

All treatment available aim to control the symptoms by reducing inflammation and relieving itching. These can be Steroid creams, unfortunately side effects including the skin becoming thin and fragile but also by their immunosuppressing action, can lead to fungal or bacterial skin infection. These can not be used continually and need to be alternated with other treatments such as moisturizers (emollients). Sugarpuffish give us other possible treatments:

Traditional treatments for eczema are emollients and steroid creams, immunosuppressant, wet wraps and ultraviolet light treatment.  As a child I was smoothed in thick heavy creams morning and evening.  I could not use conventional soaps and shampoos so had prescribed alternatives.  I wore cotton gloves to bed to try and stop me scratching in my sleep.  When I got infections I would be bandaged up like an Egyptian Mummy.

Cause(s) of Eczema

At 10 years old my eczema was dramatically affecting my daily life.  I was in a great deal of pain, because my skin was broken and infected, I developed asthmatic symptoms and was no longer participating in sports at school.  My GP referred me for a Skin Prick Test  which I passed my test with flying colours I was officially allergic to pretty much the entire world – Cats, Dogs, Feathers, Dust Mites, Pollen, Fungus, Milk, Eggs, Citrus Fruits, Yeast, Perfumes and many more.  We left the hospital with a long list and dietary information.  By cutting out what I was allergic to I was virtually free from eczema. 

The cause of Eczema is unfortunately unknown but some research suggest that the answer could be in your genetic profile and/or your environment. Indeed, studies on populations have found that Asthma sufferers, as well as Eczema and other allergic diseases, grew up in a very clean environment such that, combined with a failing immune system, had an increased risk of developing their condition compared to other non sufferers.

Beauty products

About five years ago my eczema broke out severally and I couldn’t understand what had triggered it.  I did research via the internet and started to find articles about chemicals used in beauty products that were possible skin irritants.  It started to make sense all my life I had to avoid certain brands of washing powder, fabric conditioner, soap and shampoo.  I overhauled my beauty cabinet and changed to products made without ingredients that are believed to be skin irritants e.g. SLS, parabens, artificial fragrance, petrochemicals, PEG’s, silicones, DEA, lanolin.  Almost immediately I noticed a change in my eczema and dry skin.  I will never go back to regular beauty products and I urge people with sensitive skin to try natural products and see the difference for themselves.

* SLS = Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, is known in all research labs as SDS.A complete review on SLS and its variants has now been written on Science is So Sexy and is available HERE

* Parabens are used as preservatives for their antibacterial and antifungal actions, so we can keep our creams without them becoming infected. So far, no other component has been as efficient to replace it. Much contraversy has been raised  after extremely low concentrations have been found in breast cancer tumours however more research need to be conducted to confidently link paraben to cancer. Paraben is found naturally in some plants such as blueberries and most parabens used in products have the exact same formula. A complete review has now been written on Science is So Sexy and is now available HERE

While searching for this post, I came across this article with more information about allergies and dermatitis, it also lists terms you might wanna look for when choosing a product, but also about misleading terms listed on products. Of course, checking out Sugarpuffish blog will definitely be an immense and regular source of information for beauty products targeted at people who have a sensitive skin prone to allergies.

I hope you found this post interesting, no doubt we all learnt something, me by preparing it, you by reading it!! Thank you again Sugarpuffish for opening up to us :)

See you Soon for more Sexy Science,

In SSS hood

Dear Normal People,

It seems so long ago I started this new venture and left it abandonned!!!

I am so sorry, I've been so busy with my scientist life, reading complicated stuff for work, sweating over unworkable experiments, frustrated over weird unreal looking results...

But in my Science is So Sexy hood, I have a request for the story of Vitamin D and the Winter blues, an exciting double "guest" post about a real Life experience, and a press release about Music, plus an update on one of my previous post!!

Exciting exciting!!!

 (: Stay tuned :)