Chemicals in our Make up - Part 3: Mascara

Dear SSS readers,

Just a quick word on my growing readers list: Thank you so much for you support, your comments are greatly appreciated!!

I've enjoyed my blogger journey so far and although it takes a while to prepare all the posts, it is worth it when I get loads of views!!! It is so exciting, for example, the Double post, in collaboration with Sugarpuffish, on Eczema has reached almost 400 views so far, so a BIG thank you for your interest!!!

Today, we will resume our saga Chemicals in our Make up with Part 3 focusing on Mascara.
The request was originally from Bibil, and inspired by one of the earlier posts about Eczema and cosmetics products: What are the Chemicals in our Make up?

You can catch up the first two instalments here Part 1: Foundation and Part 2: Eye shadow.

Mascara

From HERE

The use of mascara dates back from around 4000 BC in ancient Egypt. Women used Kohl to darken their eyelashes, eyes and eyeshadows to, presumably, ward off evil spirits and protect their soul.

In Victorian times, women would heated mix ash and elderly juice for example to apply on their eyelashes. Needless to say the formula has changed over the years...

In the 19th century, chemist Rimmel developed a cosmetic using the newly invented petroleum jelly. I am sure that you are all familiar with this name.

At the same time, Mister Williams created something similar for his sister called Maybel! Now I'm sure you know that name ;)

Although it was incredibily messy, women had to wait until 1957 for Helena Rubinstein and Elizabeth Arden to launch a lotion-based cream that would be applied to the eyelashes with a brush!

Nowadays, however varied the palette of ingredients, they are all grouped in 4 categories: pigments, oils, waxes and preservatives! I found a very interesting website where you can put the name of any cosmetic and it will give you the list of chemicals in it and will give you information on their safety. For our purpose, I typed Maybelline and Elizabeth Arden ones:

Maybelline Waterproof Lenghtening Mascara Brownish Black 812

Ingredients: Isodecane (for waterproof), Beeswax, Carnauba wax, Bran Wax, Parrafin, Alcohol denat., polyvinyl Laurate, Eicosene Copolymer, Propylene Carbonate, Talc, Ethylendiamine, PEG 30 Glyceryl Stearate, Propyl/MethylParaben, Disteardimmonium hectorite, water, allyl stearate, Hydrogenated Jojoba oil, may contain Iron oxides.

Of which according to this website, these ones are identified as harmful:

Bran Wax as for any wax, its toxicity can be caused in two ways: By ingesting large amounts or by burning it. Ingesting large amounts of wax can result in a serious intestinal blockage. Also, it may be contaminated with pesticides used on the rice.

Talc, also called magnesium silicate is considered safe at a low concentrations, but many studies have shown a link between talc and lung/ovarian/skin cancer. In general, inhalation of the particles are what's harmful.

Parabens are used as preservatives for their antibacterial and antifungal actions, so we can keep our creams without them becoming infected. So far, no other component has been as efficient to replace it. Much contraversy has been raised  after extremely low concentrations have been found in breast cancer tumours however more research need to be conducted to confidently link paraben to cancer. Paraben is found naturally in some plants such as blueberries and most parabens used in products have the exact same formula. However it has been shown with confidence that some people can become allergic to it and should avoid it or else could develop dermatitis. - A full review is now available HERE

PEG 30 Glyceryl Stearate: PEG means PolyEthylene Glycol and is a compound used in a multitude of applications from industrial manufacturing to medicine, its tradename is Carbowax. It is used in many moisterizering creams, even hypoallergenic ones. Any PEG product doesn't seem to yield any problem - EXCEPT on irritated and broken skin (which, by penetrating directly underneath the skin and entering the blood stream, could lead to kidney toxicity), the problem are the impurities such as Ethylene oxide and 1,4-dioxane known to increase the incidence of uterine and breast cancer and of leukemia and brain cancer.

Iron Oxides are fine powders that give the colour to our product, they are made synthetically in order to avoid impurities, as far as my research extends to they are not considered as irritant or harmful, although of course as their original state is powder, inhaling is never good!

Elizabeth Arden Ceramide Lash Extending Treatment Mascara-Black

Ingredients: Water, Polybutene, Glyceryl Stearate, C18-36 Acid triglyceride, Propylen Glycol, Cetyl Palmitate, Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax, PVP, Stearic acid, VP Eicosene Copolymer, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Steareth 20, Copernicia Cerifera (Camauba) Wax, Nylon 12 (for the lenght), Triethanolamine, Ceramide 1, 3, 6-11 (stiffeners), Retinyl Palmitate, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Hydrolysed Vegetable Protein PG Propyl Silanetriol, Panthenol, Phytosphingosine, Cholesterol, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Steareth 2, Butylene, Ethylene, Styrene Copolymer, Ethylene Propylene Styrene Copolymer, Carbomer, Xantham Gum (Stabilizer for the consistency), Ethylparaben, Methylparaben, Phenoxyethanol, Propylparaben, May contain Iron oxides and Ultramarines.

Pfiou, that was not easy typing all this!!! Of all these, these were considered unsafe

Glyceryl Stearate is the esterification products of glycerine and stearic acid, and are used in cosmetic formulations as emollients, emulsifiers, and stabilizers. Lots of scientific studies exist on the toxicity of this ingredient, results are:Toxic effect was very mild if ingested. It is non carcinogenic. It does cause mild irritation to sensitive eyes. But as the concentration used in cosmetics is very low compared to the one tested, it is considered safe for use.

Cetyl Palmitate is an ester of palmitic acid and octyl, cetyl, or isopropyl alcohol. Acute studies with rabbits showed no evidence of dermal toxicity, they are nonirritating and nonsensitizing. Also, an eye irritation test on the Palmitates produced either no or only very slight ocular irritation.

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene functions as a skin-conditioning agent-emollient and nonaqueous viscosity-increasing agent. In a very serious study on the toxicity of this ingredient, no evidence was found that it could be hazardous in our cosmetics. It is not an eye irritant nor a skin irritant or sensitizer. It did not promote tumour growth. Due to its low water solubility, gastrointestinal absorption is minimal. The conclusions of this study were that it is safe to use at the concentrations tested, which are higher than the one used.  

Triethanolamine: In one study, they tested it as an allergenic component. Out of 85, 000 people tested, only 300 showed a slight irritation, not an allergic reaction. In another study, it was tested as a mutagenic compound but results showed that it did not have any carcinogenic activity despite its potential conversion into a known carcinogenic compound.

Retinyl Palmitate is the synthetic form of Vitamin A, we can sometimes find in vitamin pills!! So it is safe, I have no idea why it was flagged!!

Tocopheryl Acetate is Vitamin E!!! Again, should not be flagged unless the concentration is exceptionally high!!!

Panthenol is a ProVitamin B5! It is an humectant, emollient and moisterizer because it has good skin penetration. Can be used, in conjonction with other ingredients for mild burn or mild skin disorders.

Cholesterol! Oh Well, ... It is used in cosmetics as an emollient and moisterizer

Ethylene is a gas that is considered asphyxiant and combustible. It is also listed as a carcinogenic.

Ethylparaben, Methylparaben - See above - Full review available HERE

Phenoxyethanol is a bactericide, and is one of the ingredients of many vaccines, studies show that it is a excellent alternative to other preservatives that are known to release highly toxic formaldehyde.

So from the list of ingredients that were flagged as toxic, I don't see much evidence. Of course, if your skin is sensitive and you are prone to irritation or allergic reaction, minimal use of cosmetics would be advised. As always, the concentrations of the ingredients are important in flagging products. Anything can be dangerous if taken at a dose too high - including Oxygen!!!

Precautions in the use of mascaras include throwing away your tube after 4-5 months use, or if it's clumpy or immediately if it smells - which is a sign of bugs growing.

This concludes Part 3: Mascara!

Stay tuned for:

• Part One: Foundation
• Part Two: Eye Shadow
• Part Four: Lipstick